The Red Sails of Ilulissat

Greenland, the world’s largest non-continental island, has been at the top of my bucket list for quite some time boasting a breath-taking landscape of rugged mountains, a vast expanse of wilderness, and simply spectacular backdrops at every turn.. Icelandic legend has it that the sparsely populated nation was dubbed “Greenland” by Eric the Red to entice settlers to its green and fertile shores. Eric wasn’t wrong; although 80 percent of its land is covered by the Greenland icecap, the summers are nothing short of gorgeous, flaunting fauna and flora, lush green valleys, topped off with intricate fjord systems and dotted with adorably colourful houses. From the beautiful, rugged coastline you can witness icebergs drifting effortlessly from the ice fjord out into the open sea as they begin their journey northwards to their final destination, the Atlantic Ocean, a dramatic and awe-inspiring natural phenomenon.

My flight from Reykjavik Keflavik airport (one of the only two international airports allowed access to fly into Greenland) landed in Ilulissat airport. Translator note: Ilulissat in Kalaallisut (Greenlandic language) means icebergs. Located on the west coast of Greenland, 250 km north of the Arctic Circle Ilulissat has a population of 4670 and is the third largest Greenlandic city. It is worth noting that the city  is home to almost as many sled dogs as people. Cute as that may be, what makes the city really special is the gigantic icebergs along its coast which translate to the area being a highly sought tourist destination. The drive to the hotel may have taken a mere 15 minutes but it was long enough to kickstart witnessing nature’s grandeur

We arrived a day earlier than the rest of the group giving us time to wander around the local area and discover the village with its colourful façade. The beautifully colourful houses that adorn Ilulissat's shores were actually a means of communicating to passing fishermen. Supply stores, churches and schools were painted red, hospitals received a coat of yellow, and municipal buildings blue. Though this tradition no longer stands, it adds so much to the charm of the city.  As you walk through the village you’re greeted by the howling of huskies. a special canine breed that can tolerate the Arctic conditions. Important fact: never approach a sled dog unless given permission by the owner and by law they must be chained if they are 6months or older.

Hiking around Ilulissat is the quickest and easiest way to get close to the immense ice fjord which fringes the town so with more time to spare, we decided to hike The Blue Route one of the four hiking trails and possibly the most scenic one. The trail cuts its way through deep ravines banked by steep cliffs on either side. As it rises, a series of emerald mountains are exposed just before the scenery opens up to superb views of the ice fjord. There are not enough words to describe the emotions that well up as one stands before the magnificence of an oceanfront flushed with icebergs of all shapes and sizes. Our hike was cut short as fog started to encompass the view, so we made our way back with a promise to return.

Our daily photography trip usually commences from the harbour in Disko Bay where Captain Alex and the crew carefully guide our sailboats out into the sea. During the summer months, the packed ice breaks allowing travellers to explore the fjord whilst sailing past towering but ironically delicate ice sculptures. The fact that no two icebergs are the same gives the scene that extra splendour. Thousands of broken pieces of ice drift slowly across calm glassy waters. The entire landscape has a glossy sense of solitude and calm, just slightly rippled by hunks of ice breaking off a berg. With the summer days casting a long light, the midnight sun is another beautiful phenomenon to observe. Gorgeous rays of red yellow and orange infiltrate the moody clouds hovering over towering icebergs. It truly feels like epic cinematography, saved for only the most dramatic documentaries. On good days we would spend up to 7 hours chasing bergs, the red sails of our sailboat flaring out amongst them. Greenland’s weather is quite fickle and can change dramatically in a few minutes, so heading back home can become a water logged experience as the crew have to carefully dodge the floating pieces of ice as they guide the boats back into the safety of the harbour

Chasing bergs is just not the only thing to do in ilulissat ,A trip to Rodebaii , a small settlement 14km away from Illuissat ,is a must .This tiny village has a total population of 20 inhabitants. Astonishingly they have an amazing gourmet restaurant H8, totally unexpected but really worth the trip. I tasted Muskox for the first time, but Greenland has a lot of firsts.

With a few days in hand, (super special thanks to Johnny and Maj for this), we were able torent a tugboat to take us out on a whale safari; an experience of its own magnitude (no pun intended!). We learned a lesson or two in patience as the gentle giants we came to visit dip and surface at their own pace. It’s not my first-time whale watching but it was definitely the first time I encountered these gentle giants up close against the beautiful backdrops of icebergs. Truly magical.

Perhaps this commentary sheds some light on the outstanding natural beauty, and  serenity that is Greenland.  What I really hope is that my photography will give you an inkling, an inspiration, or perhaps the full on desire to get yourself out there!

Visa requirements :

A Danish Schengen visa is required. No other Schengen is accepted. It is safer to check with the Danish embassy for entry requirements to Greenland  prior to your travel date by at least a month .

Cameras and lenses :

-Keep in mind that when shooting icebergs you will be doing that from a boat so no tripods are required.

-Travel with two camera bodies. Easier than switching lenses. Fujifilm xt4 /fujifilmxh1

-Mid range zoom /wide angle lens/ zoom lens for wildlife gulls and whales .  xf 55-200mm /xf100400mm/ laowa 9mm

Unless you plan to shoot long exposure shots in the village you will not require nd filters but it doesn’t hurt to have them in hand .

There is a lot of flora for Macro lovers . Reeflex Macro 10x lens for mobile . Xf80mm

Clothing: you have to master the art of layering. Everything must be waterproof.

-jeans are useless unless you plan to use them in the hotel lobby.

-Lightweight puffer jacket/ Daybreaker lightweight active outdoor jacket. /full zip fleece coat ./Big down jacket.

Gloves /scarf /hat/woollen socks

Insulated pants(ski pants)/Waterproof pants

Thermal leggings /and regular leggings.

Sunglasses/mosquito repellent/sunscreen

Hiking boots.

Make sure you have whatever meds you usually require with extras.

Last but not least when travelling to and from Greenland keep an open mind. Due to their unpredictable weather, flights tend to get cancelled frequently. Stay in ilulissat and enjoy the extra time shooting sunsets and whales.