Hola México!!
Mexico, is a land of extremes, ranging between high mountains and deep canyons, deserts, and dense rain forest. The name Mexico is derived from a blended Nahuatl term, which translates “navel of the moon”, a visual as beautiful as the land itself. Built on Lake Texcoco, Tenochtitlan, Mexico City was once the capital of the Aztec empire, and still boasts a blend of glorious heritage built upon native Aztec beliefs combined with the European influences that came into play in daily customs and practices.
The Mexican culture is a blend to several indigenous groups: Nahuas, Otomis, Mayans, Zapotecs, Tzeltales and Tzotziles, among others. This diversity changes as you explore the country, seen through distinctive regional dialects, differing celebrations, rich traditional and local culinary specialties, and distinct architectural styles and influences. Wherever you are, you'll experience a vibrant society and a proud people.
I think I loved this country before I had even visited; influenced and thanks to the friends I made on previous trips. Elena, my Mexican travel friend, and photography mentor created an itinerary that guaranteed I would I have a remarkable experience mixed with true Mexican hospitality.
I would highly recommend visiting Mexico during its peak season of the Mexican year, you guessed it; the season of Dia de los Muertos. You will witness an entire country decked out in an explosion of colours as it gears up to commemorate the most iconic of Mexican festivals.
My first stop was Mexico City, a multi-layered, cosmopolitan society with so much to offer. Mexico City is known for its multitude of cultural attractions which include over 100 museums and a flourishing arts and design scene. My favourite stop was the Biblioteca Vasconcelos an architectural landmark which is renowned for its floating shelves that come together to create an infinite illusion.
Strolling down Paseo de la Reforma the city’s widest avenue, was enough to set the mood for the celebrations to come. Both sides of the avenue were lined with life sized meticulously designed Papier Mache Alerbrijes surrounded by multiple stalls of “cempasúchil “yellow Marigolds and red velvet Cockscomb the official flowers of the Día de los Muertos. An explosion of colours and artisanal excellence.
Xochimilco, and its famed canals system built by the Aztecs, lie in the southern part of the city and are the last remnants of a vast water transport system. Here I had my first encounter with Las Catrinas a ubiquitous character associated with Day of the Dead and what has become an icon of Mexican identity. Part of my time in Xochimilco was dedicated to a four-hour sunrise photo shoot and to meeting more local photographers who immediately made me at home amongst them. To be honest, meeting such kindred spirits made me realise that language is never a barrier to friendship in Mexico.
30 miles outside of the city is Teotihuacán, an UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of the legendary Mexican pyramids, another Aztec remanent. I spent three hours driving a quad with a local guide and Elena, discovering the different caves and stone formations that surround this vast archaeological complex. We walked the 1.5-mile-long Avenue of the Dead, an avenue linking the Temple of the Sun and the Temple of the Moon. On clear days, I’m told you can get a clear visual of the Cerro Gordo volcano. One of the highlights of this trip was when the guide showed us the obsidian rock, a stone that can be used as an ND filter to look at the sun; maybe once upon a time it was used to check out eclipses. Lunch was yet another favourite, with a stop at La Gruta, a beautiful restaurant set amid one of the most breath-taking grottos enclosed by stunning petrified rocks. Needless to say, as it was the week of the festivity every single stop had elaborate altars, it was a moment of peace to light a candle and set it at an altar.
The Mercados or local markets are a bustling hub. As with everything else in Mexico it’s all about colour, vivacity, and charm. The markets are filled with locals donning traditional, and very colourful huipil (dresses), vendors trying to sell their locally made jewellery, artworks, homemade delicacies, a range of tequilas and mezcals; all this is set to a mixture of cumbian music blending in with the beauty of the Spanish language. The entire scene feels like a segway to a musical. My beautiful week in Mexico City ended on a great note, when I was lucky to witness a beautiful cultural show the “Ballet Folkórico de México” in the Palacio de Bellas Artes; a testimony to how the Mexicans love putting on a great show.
I flew out to my next destination: Oaxaca. This city is the epitome and possibly the main centre of Día de los Muertos. A remarkable festivity which is a blend of Mesoamerican rituals, and the Spanish Culture who introduced All Souls Day, in the early 1500s. A beautiful family affair; a reunion except that the dead are the guests of honour. A “CELEBRATION” as Elena constantly reminds me!!! Not a sombre event. Across the country ornate shrines and altars are set up in every corner. Some more elaborate than others but all of which were created with a lot of thought and love and devotion.
The daily parades called “muerteadas” in different towns were our daily evening ritual. Perfecting portrait photography is one thing, but trying to do that amid a raucous but euphonic parade is very challenging! Stress levels at their peak and to make matters worse I had to do it with a strobe, which meant not enough hands were available to hold my gear. I guess things fell into place finally as I was rewarded with the most amazing photos, that I am proud to add to my portfolio.
Not just defined by its colourful parades, Oaxaca, much like the rest of Mexico, has its fair share of beautiful villages and stunning landscapes. Monte Albán or the Mountain of Snow is just one example of this, the mountain gets its name from the white Cashuate floral trees that bloom in December creating a snowy illusion. Another beautiful town, is San Martín Tilcajete, which is home to the beautiful artisanal work of Albrijes (the first alebrijes, along with the invention of the term, originated with Mexico City as Pedro Linares creations).
The artisans of Oaxaca began to use the word Alebrije to define their wooden figures which they carved so exquisitely out of Copal wood and colour in the most precise of patterns .I was lucky to visit the house that inspired the movie Coco .(unfortunately the granny was already dead). Hierve el Agua is a set of natural travertine rock formations in San Lorenzo Albarradas, a mere two hour drive transports you to a stunning landscape of the Sierras where a calcified waterfall is set in a natural formation resembling a cascade of water .I highly recommend doing the hike as the views are insanely beautiful .
Teotitlán del Valle is another beautiful town set within the Sierras. In this the Oaxacan Central Valley, sits the small village which is home of the Zapotec rug weavers. The streets of this town are lined with stores dedicated to this local craft and to add to the already vibrant scenes are endless murals and graffiti on every wall. It was very impressive watching the artisans still using traditional techniques and natural ingredients to create their colours. The powder of tiny cochineal bugs in addition to turmeric amongst other natural ingredients are used to convert wool into endless shades of gold, red, and green and blue. It’s well worth buying a tapete or two as a memory of this place.
This city is also home to the amazing tree, El Árbol del Tule, which has the largest trunk diameter of any tree in Mexico if not the world. The tree trunk spans almost 145 feet in circumference and stands at over 130 feet tall, with a crown circumference of 190 feet. It has the stoutest tree trunk I have ever seen.
But the most important two nights in this week are the nights of the 1st and 2nd of November. All-night vigils are held in the cemeteries hence these celebrations are a means of welcoming the spirits of dead who return home for this night. To be honest I was a bit apprehensive doing this as I’m not a big fan of cemeteries let alone spend the night in a graveyard!! But as with everything else in this trip I took Elena’s word for it and kept my fingers crossed. Upon entering the first cemetery you see a multitude of altars laden with Marigolds, hosts of flickering candles surround the graves creating a beautiful soothing light. the air was heavy with the scent of marigold intertwined with a faint waxy scent from the burning candles. Food and candy and a range of decorations take the playful shape of cartoonish skeletons. People take extra care to prepare the favourite foods of their deceased relatives for a nighttime feast, and families gather for festivities. Mezcal is customary and to honour the dead you must not refuse their shots! Oops! Picnics are held and multiple stalls sell their take on the famed pan de muertos and colourfully iced sugar skulls. It is this interplay between the grievous and the celebratory that makes the event such a surreal experience. I still can’t believe I enjoyed my time in the cemetery as much as I did (can’t believe i’m actually saying that). WOOOW! What an experience!
Yucatán was my final destination. A beautiful peninsula that once was the hub of the ancient Mayan Civilization. Famed for its lush jungles and tropical rainforests made it home to an astounding variety of exotic birdlife. This leg of the trip was dedicated to my three favourite photographic genres Landscape, night, and bird photography. Our fantastic photography guide Martín created a fabulous itinerary that covered all three making sure that our days were packed with plenty to do and still time left to shop!
We cruised through the vibrant picturesque colonial towns, (Celestún, Ria Lagartos, Valladolid, Kimbila and Izamal ) and visited their exquisite local markets and haciendas. Sunrises and sunsets were spent chasing bright pink flamingos in the mangroves, their natural habitat. Their colours an indication of their mineral-rich diet. Willy (our skipper and a biologist by profession) cautiously manoeuvred the boat through the densely covered area, careful not to disturb or disrupt the serenity of the breathtaking scene. We were treated to beautiful bird sightings and not to forget a couple of alligators meandering in their calm surroundings.
Martín is an avid birdwatcher, he helped me develop an even greater appreciation for these tiny creatures throwing in excellent tips on how to photograph them. Afternoons were spent visiting landmarks such as the iconic Chichen Itzá; one of the seven wonders of the world, and rightfully so. It always baffles me how these huge structures were built thousands of years ago using manpower and basic instruments. The structural design is still incomprehensible in terms of finesse.
The cherry on the top was swimming in a cenote. A large sinkhole filled with cool underground water. Its steep cave walls encircled by hanging vines and flying bats ..50m deep. And yes, it was a bit scary, but I did it!
However, the pink lakes of Las Coloradas were my absolute favourite. The bacteria that inhabit them is what gives the brilliant pink colour to the salt flats, almost surreal. But as I always say Mexico is a land of joy, color and vibrancy. And naturally their landscape is a testimony to that.
Mexico is a country that boasts an abundance of diverse activities to keep you enthralled. It is a land that never fails to captivate its visitors, and guarantees you leave with stunning memories made.
Whether you’re seeking an adrenaline-fueled adventure or eager to explore the ancient ruins, Mexico has something for everyone.
I was very lucky to have travelled and experienced Mexico with the most amazing people.
Something that will always make it closer to my heart
TRAVEL TIPS:
Visa requirements :.
As a Bahraini passport holder I can use either a valid Schengen visa or a valid Uk visa and both work .
After luggage collection you can get money exchange at the forex bureaus .
I used Airalo chip and it worked perfectly and I had coverage in the middle of the forest .
Avoid eating any uncooked veggies or fruits .Eat veggies or fruits that can be peeled for the first couple of days at least to adjust.
Pile up the sunscreen and keep it in your backpack at all times . Keep a first aid kit but meds are readily available depending on where you are the more remote you are the less likely you will have access to pharmacies (nausea, anti diarrhoea ,paracetamol ,) .
Mosquito repellent is a MUST.and you have to constantly reapply .
A power bank is a must .
Cameras and lenses :
-Travel with a minimum of two camera bodies. Easier than switching lenses. Fujifilm xt4/nikon z7ii
-bring as many camera batteries as possible.
-wide angle lens 14-24mm ( I like to use it in nightscapes and landscapes /portraits).for close ups I used 50mm,a midrange zoom nikkor 24-120mm . A long range zoom 100400mm or more for wildlife.
As all parades are done at nightfall bring in a strobe . I used a Good with a trigger
Clothing :
-Tshirts/joggers/long shorts /long sleeved t-shirts /hats and gaiters for jungle treks/a shawl/ a very light raincoat when doing the mangrove trips helped a lot in keeping the mosquitos at bay.
Trainers and sandles with support. do not bring flats .
Sunglasses/mosquito repellent/sunscreen/ shampoo/lotion/soap/hats/ a full medical kit (paracetamol,vita c , anti nausea, anti diarrhea ,mosquito bite lotion, hand sanitiser )
Tour operator: highly recommend both of them .
Oaxaca :Jair :Tel:+52-951-439-7517
Yucatan : Martin Moguel +52-999-743-7686
INSTAGRAM : @martinmoguel_photography @grupocaptura
