Uganda:the Pearl of Africa

Photos are powerful. They have the ability to inspire, to create change, to move people, quite literally in my case. A photo of the renowned wildlife photographer Majid Alza’abi moved me to take a journey thousands of miles from home. Before divulging the details of this trip, let me share some facts about my destination, Uganda.

Photo Credits :Majid Alza’abi

Located in Eastern Africa, landlocked Uganda, obtained independence in 1962 and is home to numerous ethnic groups. The nation is largely known for the largest freshwater lake on the continent, Lake Victoria, which was clearly visible when we started our descent into the Ugandan capital. Also known for its national parks, and wildlife, Uganda boasts the opportunity to see the Big Five (which includes Leopards, Lions, Southern White Rhino, African Cape Buffalo, and African Bush Elephants). We ended up seeing three out of the five, not bad by my books! However, what we saw plenty of, and the main reason I was visiting was to come into touch with the largest community of primates, including mountain gorillas.

Travelling in Uganda is one big “off the beaten track “kind of adventure so with that in mind I left the planning, as I usually do to the professionals. Unlike the rest of my trips, this was not a photography-oriented tour. I was ready to try out something new, and to immerse myself in the imperfections that such an experience may bring.

Our travel itinerary was spread over 7 days to cover the main highlights of the country. So, after a welcome dinner at the hotel (we had the yummiest steak) and a good night’s sleep, we headed to the Entebbe domestic airport to begin the first leg of our adventure. Most flights within Africa are smaller chartered plans, so don’t plan to travel with anything larger than a duffle bag. We (all 12 pf us) boarded the two tiny planes and took off to our first stop Kihihi Airstrip, where our drivers were waiting to take us to the Ishasha Wilderness camp in Queen Elizabeth National Park.

Remember when I said this trip was “off-the beaten track”, well I meant it. Only a very small section of the roads around the National Park are paved and once you’re within the park, it is pure dirt roads. Our guide explained that despite the number of tourists visiting, paved roads are banned because asphalt is simply not animal friendly. We reached our hotel, and my first view was two water buffalos lazing in the river right across my porch, what a sight! That afternoon, we took off for an afternoon safari drive and a sunset picnic in the middle of the park. The energy of the animals and wildlife around us was amazing, from exotic birds to Impalas, Topis, Elephants and the Grey Crowned Crane, Uganda’s national bird. As this was not a photography tour, I was more relaxed, taking some photos but mostly, just enjoying the view and taking it all in.

Our next stop was the Kazinga channel, a 40 km long stream of water that connects Lake George to Lake Edward located near the Mweya Safari. We saw good number of hippos and elephants basking in the water eating tons of grass. Do you know the main reason hippos stay in the water all day long? Their skin has to avoid direct contact with the sun as it is extremely sensitive and can easily burn; quite ironic that one of the deadliest animals in Africa is prone to death by sunburn! Some Bushbucks and antelopes roamed freely on the shores. Did I mention that the channel is home to almost 612 bird species from all over the world?! My lens was stretched to its limit!

We continued the drive to Lake Katwe one of the three points were the equator crosses. Here we listened to a remarkable explanation of the Coriolis effect which describes the pattern of deflection taken by objects and how the equator contributes to that. So, in the Northern hemisphere, objects are deflected to north hence moves clockwise. In the Southern hemisphere, they deflect to the left, moving counterclockwise.

As mentioned afore, Uganda is home to the biggest primate community in the world so I was very excited that the next stop was the Chimpanzee Trek in Kibale. In my mind were captures and stills I would take of those beautiful primates. My excitement was equally matched with anxiety as I tried to complete my photo settings without the support of fellow photographers. Top that off with the emotional overload of being in a jungle for the first time. This was a leap into the deep end knowing I wouldn’t be coming back to this magical place so easily. After what seemed like an eternity getting the right settings, whilst also trying not to trip over the vegetation and keep up with the rest of the group (you really don’t want to be left behind), I was finally taking shots that I was content with.

Then we arrived to the most anticipated part of the trip and the sole purpose of my Ugandan adventure: The Mountain Gorilla Trek. Bwindi Impenetrable National Park sprawls over an area of 321 sq. kilometres and is home to 120 species of animals, 350 species of birds, and 310 species of butterflies to mention just a few. Floristically, it is one of the most diverse spots in East Africa. Most importantly, to me, it is home to 400 Bwindi Gorillas half of the world’s population, 14 of which are habituated and open to visitors.

After a short briefing from park officials, our trek commenced. Trackers are sent earlier in the day to locate the gorilla family that we were assigned to visit and as there is no network connections the wardens communicate via satellites phones. “Impenetrable” is an understatement, we were accompanied by 7 forest guards who were responsible for our safety and for clearing the intertwined forest vegetation to create safe passage for us. After an hour long trek, we reached a clearing and had to wait for further instructions regarding the location of our Gorilla family.

We were given clear instructions: under no circumstance should we talk or raise our voices as that disturbed the gorillas. We were also not allowed to get too close to them. We had to wear our masks so we wouldn’t transmit any viruses to them and finally, in the event a gorilla came up to us, we were clearly instructed to stay in place and not run away as that upsets them. Yes, my friends, it’s all about them, but then we were in their home.

It is difficult to explain the emotions that overcame everyone as we got into close proximity of these huge mammals. It really felt like being part of a National Geographic documentary. The mother Gorilla, Malika, was lying on her back casually eating leaves, and patting her feeding baby Miracle, unperturbed by our group. Part stunned, part excited, I started to snap photos, and I could have stayed for hours. Time flew and we had to leave the beautiful Gorilla family. Part of me wanted to go back and do it all over again the next day, but that was not an option. The tour had more in store for us.

We flew back to Entebbe on our way to our last stop, Jinja, the source of the Nile. Our lodge was an experience on its own. It was perched on granite rocks and is only accessible by boats. The sounds of the mighty Nile thrashing onto the rocks was quite hypnotic and calming. We headed out in the afternoon to Butagaya fishing village where we took a boat trip to visit the source of the White Nile. The spot is clearly identifiable in the river as the waters spurt out; a lifeline to the countries it flows into. The day was capped off with exotic birds and a beautiful sunset as one would expect, or should I say hope for, in these locations.

As the trip came to an end the excitement and experiences don’t does not stop. We were going white water rafting! Of course, the briefing, the training and we were off. It seemed pretty easy,until we hit a grade three wave . I am proud to say I survived the Nile.

Our beautiful 7-day trip to Uganda was filled with many first time experiences, beautiful cultural visits, amazing food, stunning hotels and above all an amazing group . Most spectacularly though, it included a special family, their warm spirts, human-like gestures and endearing expressions.

There is a reason this beautiful place was dubbed by Winston Churchill 'the Pearl of Africa' Will I go back? Well, only time will tell.

TRAVEL TIPS:

Check the vaccine requirements with your local health centre prior to the trip. Yellow Fever Vaccine is compulsory and you have to show a proof of vaccination as soon as you exit the plane prior to immigration .Keep it in your hand .

Visa requirements : Hard copies of these documents are required .

*A letter of invitation is and that is usually provided by the tour operator .

*An email approval of the visa .

*Travel tickets . Only then you will be granted the entry visa .

Keep in mind that takes time at the immigration desk .

After luggage collection you can get money exchange at the forex bureaus .

The hotels we stayed in were 5 stars but to be safe DO NOT drink tap water or even use it when brushing teeth .Use bottled water at all times.

Avoid eating any uncooked veggies or fruits .Eat veggies or fruits that can be peeled .

Pile up the sunscreen and keep it in your backpack at all times . Keep a first aid kit as meds are not readily available (nausea, anti diarrhoea ,paracetamol ,)

Buy a phone chip as wifi is limited to hotels .

A power bank is a must .I used Anker 10000M.

Cameras and lenses :

-Travel with a minimum of two camera bodies. Easier than switching lenses. Fujifilm xt4/xh1/nikon z7ii

-bring as many camera batteries as possible.

-wide angle lens 14-24mm ( I like to use it in environmental portraits).for close ups I used 80mm usually a macro . a midrange zoom nikkor 24-120mm . A long range zoom 100400mm or more for wildlife.

There is a lot of flora for Macro lovers . Reeflex Macro 10x lens for mobile .

Clothing :

-Tshirts/joggers/long shorts /long sleeved t-shirts and gaiters for jungle treks./a light puffer jacket /a shawl.

Trainers and sandles with support. do not bring flats .

Sunglasses/mosquito repellent/sunscreen/ shampoo/lotion/soap/hats/ a full medical kit (paracetamol,vita c , anti nausea, anti diarrhea ,mosquito bite lotion, hand sanitiser )

LAST BUT NOT LEAST take as much pens and color crayons as your luggage will permit . we drove past many villages and the kids were very excited to get these gifts. . It’s a luxury they can’t afford . Candies are always a bonus.

Tour operator: JOYNTrips

Instagram : @mejroxy @joyntrips